Doughs

Food — By Crust on March 8, 2009
puff before it is rolled out

puff before it is rolled out

I love making doughs. Pictured above is some puff dough I made last night for a beef wellington dinner tonight. I feel like one small part of being a strong cook is to understand how to make a variety of doughs. Puff dough, quiche/pie dough, gnocchi dough, pasta dough, choux paste, bread doughs, etc. I have a dream to learn how to make noodle dough, for hand pulled noodles, but I don’t have a good dough recipe yet. Dough, dough, dough!!!

22 Comments

  1. Colleen says:

    And you say that you hate pastry! Yeah right! Looks like good dough. What laminate did you use?

  2. Jessica says:

    yeh, those laminations look great. I love making doughs, too. it’s really calming. i don’t really do it nearly enough, except gnocchi.

  3. Crust says:

    I only like savory pastry, and chocolate. I don’t know what laminate is. But I used Wendy’s inside out puff recipe.
    It is:
    400g butter
    175g ap flour
    roll out to a large rectangle

    Detrampe
    185g H2o
    8g salt
    3g vinegar
    420g ap flour
    115g butter
    shape into rectangle half the size of the first. then 2 double turns and 1 single.

  4. David Lightly says:

    We share the same dream about pasta dough. At Yangs around 33rd in the olden days, they has a Sunday noodle breakfast. A guy would walk into the room with a ball of dough in hand. He would throw it, twist it into a spiral, throw it more, twist it more. Then he started folding it back on itself. After about ten minutes he would walk out of the room with his arms draped in long noodles about 3mm in diameter.
    I try and throw noodles every now and then, but always have to go back to my machine. I still dream though.

  5. Colleen says:

    Your laminate is the butter. I was wondering if you used lard instead. It looks so white.

    And I agree. Being a strong cook means that you are versatile. Versatility makes you valuable. It looks like you are getting there. I haven’t made puff dough since cooking school. I would like to try a chocolate puff sometime though.

  6. celeste says:

    Your dough looks beautiful. Exceptionally beautiful…most be that extra fold. How was the wellington?

  7. Crust says:

    Thanks Colleen. Yes chocolate puff!

  8. Crust says:

    Thanks! The wellington was amazing.

  9. Crust says:

    If I have any success I’ll let you know!

  10. Laura says:

    I love making croissants and my mom makes cha siu baau (steamed bbq pork buns)and uses the most amazing dough recipe. Your puff looks fantastic!

  11. Crust says:

    Laura! I’m dying for an authentic steamed pork bun recipe!!!

    Are croissants made with puff pastry? or is it a different dough?

  12. Colleen says:

    Croissants are made basically the same way, except that rather than a detrempe, you use a yeast dough. I have found over the years that a mix of half AP flour and half bread flour makes the best croissants. Here is the recipe that I use. But I also use salted butter. (From Baking with Julia)

    1 ounce fresh yeast
    3 1/2 cups flour, unbleached all purpose+
    1/3 cup Sugar
    2 teaspoons Salt
    1 cup Milk +/-

    FOR THE BUTTER

    4 1/2 sticks unsalted butter-1 lb 2 oz — cold-cut into 1/2 in
    2 tablespoons flour, unbleached all purpose

    CROISSANTS

    1 recipe-croissant dough — well chilled
    Flour — for rolling dough
    1 large egg

    FOR THE DOUGH: Put the yeast, flour sugar, salt and 1 cup of milk into the bowl of a mixer fitted with a dough hook. With the machine on its lowest speed, mix for 1 to 2 minutes, until a soft, moist dough forms on the hook. If the dough is to dry, add more milk, 1 tablespoon at a time. In most cases if the dough does need more liquid, it won’t need more than about 3 tablespoons, but check carefully as you want all the flour to be moistened. Stop the mixer and look into the bowl. If the hook has not picked up all the flour from the bottom af the bowl, add a few more drops of milk. Set ther mixer to its highest speed and work the dough until it is smooth and elastic, no longer sticky and close to the consistancy of soft butter, about 4 minutes. To make certain that all the ingredients are perfectly blendedyou can remove the dough from the mixer after 3 minutes, and then with the mixer on high speed, return plum size pieces to the bowl. The pieces will remain seperate for a short while, then come together, at which time the dough is ready. Remove the dough from the mixer, wrap it in plastic and put it in a plastic bag, leaving a little room for expansion. Keep the dough at room temperature for 30 minutes to give the gluten time to relax; then refrigerate the dough for 8 hours or ovenight. FOR THE BUTTER: Attach the paddle to your mixer and beat the butter and flour on the highest speed until smooth and the same consistency as the croissant dough, about 2 minutes. Reach into the bowl and poke around in the butter to make sure that its evenly blended-if you find any lumps, just squeeze them between your fingers. Scrape the butter onto a large piece of plastic wrap and give it a few slaps to knock the air out of it. Mold it into an oval 5 to 6 inches long and 1 inch thick, Wrap it tightly and refrigerate until needed. At this point the dough and the butter can be frozen; defrost overnight in the refrigerator before preceeding with the recipe.

    INCORPORATING THE BUTTER: Place the croissant doughon a generously floured large work surface (marble is ideal(sure!!!)) and sprinkle the top of the dough lightly with flour. Using a long rolling pin, roll the dough into an oval approximately 10 inches wide and 17 inches long. Brush the excess flour from the dough. Center the oval of chilled butter across the oval of dough and fold the top and bottom of the dough over the butter to make a tidy package. Gently and evenly stretch the folded layers of dough out to ther sides and press the edges down firmly with your fingertips to create a neatly sealed rectangle. If you own a French rolling pin (one without handles)now’s the time to use it. Hold one side of the doughsteady with your hand and strike the other side gently but firmly with the rolling pin to distribute the butter evenly. As you hit the doough you will see the butter moving out into the crevises. Strike the other side of the dough the same way. After pounding you should have a 1 inch thick rectangle about about 14 inches long and 6 inches wide. Keeping the work surface and the top of the dough well floured, roll out the dough. If this your first time working with croissant dough, you may want to roll out the dough just a little to distribute the butter, put it on a baking sheet lined with flour-dusted parchment paper, cover it with plastic and chill it for 1 to 2 hoours first; this way you won’t risk having the dough go soft or the butter seep out. (Each time you wrap the dough, make sure it’s well covered-even a little air will cause the dought to form an unwanted skin.) If your experienced, feeling courageous or have dough that is still well chilled, go on to make your first turn.

    ROLLING AND FOLDING: Roll the dough into a rectangle 24 to 26 inches long and about 14 inches wide, with the long side facing you. (You may feel as though your rolling the dough sideways-and you are.) Brush off the excess flourand, working from the left and right sides, fold the dough inward into thirds, as you would a brochure, so that you have a package that’s about 8 inches wide by 14 inches long. Carefully transfer the dough to a parchment- lined baking sheet, mark the parchment “1 turn” so you’ll know what you’ve done, cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours. You can frereze the dough after this ar any other turn. Thaw overnight in the refrigerator before proceeding.

    FOR THE SECOND TURN: Place the dough so that the 14 inch side runs left to right. (The dough needs 2 more turns; you’ve given it one quarter-turn already.) Making sure the work surface is well floured at all times, roll the dough as you did before into a rectangle 24 to 26 inches long by about 14 inches wide . (When doing the second and third turns, you may find that the dough has cracked a little. That’s natural; it’s a result of the yeast. Don’t worry, just flour the dough and work surface and keep going.) As you did before fold the dough in thirds. Place it on the parchment, mark the paper “2 turns”, cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours.

    FOR THE THIRD TURN: Start agian with a 14 inch side running from your left side ti your right. Roll the dough into a rectangle 24 to 26 inches long by 14 inches wide. Fold the left and right sides of the dough into the center, leaving a little space in the centrer, and then fold one side over the other as though you were closing a book. This is the famouse double turn, also known as “the wallet”. Chilling the dough: Brush off the flour, wrap the dough in plastic and refrigerate for 2 hours. At this point the dough is ready to be rolled, cut and shaped into croissants. Storring: The dough can be frozen for up to 1 month. Thaw overnight, still wrapped, in the refrigerator.

    CROISSANTS ROLLING THE DOUGH: Generously flour a work surface. Position the dough so that it resembles a book, with the spine to your left and the opening to your right. For easy handling, cut the dough in half horizontally so that you have two pieces about 7 inches long and about 6 1/2 inches wide: wrap and chill one half while you work with the other half. Flour the dough and roll it into a rectangle that’s 24 to 26 inches long and 15 to 18 inches wide. This takes a lot of rolling. Keep the work surface and the dough well floured and have patience. If necessary turn the dough so that the long side runs from left to right along the counter. Carefully fold the top half of the dough down to the bottom. The dough is now ready for cutting.

    CUTTING THE DOUGH: Working with a pizza cutter or a large, very sharp knife, cut triangles from the dough. This is done most easily by making a diagonal cut on the left hand side to geet the pattern started; save the uneven piece of dough. MEasure off a 3 to 4 inch base and begin cutting the triangles, always cutting from bottom to top. You’ll have another scrap when you reach the other end-you’ll use these scraps when you shape the croissants. Unfold each pair of triangles and cut them in half to seperate. You should have 10 to 12 maybe 14 triangles; set them aside while you clear the work surface of all flour. Line two large baking sheets with parchment paper.

    SHAPING THE CROISSANTS: Moisten your hands with a wet towel. Working with one triangle at a time, gently stretch the base to widen it slightly, then, holding the base of the triangle in one hand, run the fingers of the other hand down to the point of the triangle. Use your thumb to pull and stretch the dough until it’s almos twice the original length-have courage and tug; the extra length is what allows you to make a large croissant with sufficient rolls to show off it’s layers of dough. Place the treiangle, point toward you, at arm distance on the work table this will give enough space to roll the croissant into shape with-out having to lift it in mid-roll) Pull off a little piece of the reserved scrap dough, mold it into a small football shape and center it on the wide top part of the triangle-this will help make the “belly” of the croissant plump. Fold about 1/2 inch of this wide end over itself and press the ends down once to secure. With you palms and fingers positioned over the flattened ends of the croissant and the heels of your hands on the flat work surface, roll the croissant toward you-try to keep your hands moving down and out to the sides as you roll- ending with the point of the triangle tucked under the croissant. A well shaped croissant-and it takes practice to achieve one-will sport at least six clearly accountable sections, or ridges, from rolling. Place the croissants on one of the baking sheets, leaving room for them to triple in size without touching one another. Repeat with the other half of the dough. Glazing and rising: Give the croiossants a last gentle plumping, carrefully turning the ends down and toward the center to produce the classic croissant shape. Brush the croissants with egg wash and allow them to rise, uncovered, at room temperature for 3 to 4 hours, until tripled in size and spongy. (Reserve egg wash, covered in the refrigerator.) The ideal place for rising is a turned off oven (one with a pilot light is fine) containing a pan of hot steamy water. To test that they are properly risen, wet your fingers and squeeze the end of a croissant:It should offer no resistance and feel almost hollow. Baking the croissants: Arrange the oven racks to divide the oven into thirds, and preheat the oven to 350 f. Brush the croissants once again with egg wash and bake for 12 minutes. Rotate front to back and bake another 4 to 6 minutes, until the croissants are deeply bronzed. Cool on racks. As tempting as they are croissants should not be eaten as soon as they come from the oven. The dough-and the layers within need time to set.

  13. Colleen says:

    Ohhhh, and if you ever want to make Chinese soup dumplings, I have a recipe for that dough as well.

  14. Crust says:

    Great recipe Colleen! I like that you mentioned that you can stop after any turn and freeze the dough, I often run out of time. I also loved the tip about using the extra dough to fatten the belly of the croissant.

  15. Colleen says:

    I also freeze the croissants once they are shaped. Then when I want some, I pull them out the night before and put them on a sheet pan. They defrost and proof overnight. Then I just egg wash and bake in the morning.

    Sooooo gooood!

  16. Crust says:

    Do you think that dough would work for gyoza as well?

  17. Colleen says:

    Gyoza dough is a wheat-based dough, and so is soup dumpling dough. It would be interesting to try. I think that gyoza dough may have egg or egg yolk added to it though. However, that soup dumpling dough can have some green onions and sesame oil added to it, and then be rolled out to make green onion pancakes! Funny that you ask though, as I made gyoza last weekend. (But I bought Gyoza wrappers and didn’t take pictures! Maybe I will soon.)

  18. ac says:

    The dough for jiaozi(gyoza) and xiaolongbao are the same. Flour, boiling water, and salt.

    Those thin egg based round wrappers sometimes labled potsticker (and used as such in lesser establishments) are for wontons. They also roll them into giant sheets for spring rolls which is disgusting. Fried up they resemble hot apple pie at McDonalds. A proper spring-roll wrapper is made from a loose batter and is sort of like a paper thin crepe.

  19. Colleen says:

    I have tried making spring roll wrappers before, and it is VERY HARD! There is a lot of technique involved. Next time I might get a crepe spreader to try it. I burnt the crap out of my fingers last time.

  20. Laura says:

    Christie! If you want I can get my mom’s cha siu baau recipe or even better shes coming to town soon, maybe she can give us a lesson! I’ve been wanting to try a braised short rib filling with her dough recipe and I know Momofuku in NY does a couple plays on the traditional bun too.

  21. Crust says:

    Girl!! I want a lesson from your Mom!!! Let’s set up a date.

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